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Unspoken Suit Rules

McCann Bespoke Suit Rules 1

1. The width of the tie should match the width of the lapel.

It’s all about BALANCE.

2. In general, thin lapels are more modern. Wide lapels are more old-school, so choose your accordingly.

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3. A pocket square adds an extra level of polish, but make sure it doesn’t match your tie in either pattern or fabric choice.

Before you go totally conservative, remember that the pocket square is where you get the most freedom and the one place you get to add a little pizzazz to your suit.

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4. A collar gap between your jacket’s lapels and your shirt’s collar can signify an ill-fitting jacket.

5. You should match your shoes to the colour of your suit using this guide:

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6. Double vents in the back are more modern and fashionable.

This look is also more flattering for larger figures, and it gives you enough room to do that effortlessly casual “hand in pocket” thing.

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7. For a more casual, trendy look, opt for a single-button peak-lapel jacket.

8. If you’re going for more formal business attire, opt for a double-button, notched lapel jacket.

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9. You should be able to slip your hand between your chest and your buttoned jacket such that it feels snug, but with room to move.

10. Always unbutton your suit before sitting down, or you risk ruining it.

11. The top button of a two-button (or the middle button of a three-button) should fall at or above the navel.

12. Always go with the classic windsor knot for your tie, but use the size of your head to determine whether you should go half or full windsor.

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13. If you’re wearing a vest, always keep the bottom button unbuttoned.

14. There are practical reasons for vests beyond just how they look.

A vest is best worn with single-breasted suits (so it’s actually visible). if you’re going to be wearing your suit in a cold climate, a vest can add a lot of warmth. It also adds a formal touch to your suit.

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15. Sleeve cuffs should be exposed about half an inch.

For a harmonious look, try to match the visible cuff length to the amount of collar that is visible at the back of the neck.

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19. Finally, go for the dimple.

The dimple is the little hollow beneath the knot of your tie, and it gives a slightly disheveled yet polished appearance to your finished look.

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