NEW YORK MEN’S FASHION WEEK
New York Fashion Week: Men’s is one of the lesser-known fashion weeks yet is now in its fifth year holding four days of shows of 2018 Spring/summer collections. It follows last month’s menswear shows in London, Paris, Milan and Florence. Although not really known for tailoring, we thought we’d have a look and see what they had to offer for our specific picks of suiting designers, that could lead to an inspiring bespoke suit made by us!
A first firm favourite is David Hart; he has an eye for sartorial craftsmanship and started his first ready-wear menswear collection in 2013. His main concept is keeping a consistent modern look that has a nod to a nostalgic past. It’s for the modern gentleman that could be seen as a confident yet approachable look in this city heat or even poolside with some strong yet subtle colours coming through. This season it’s a very fresh collection and offers some classic evening wear with some playful casual everyday suits. The inspiration this time was a traveller in a Cuban Spirit, with some mid-century swagger.
The Panama’s were a great touch, and its what we’ve liked to see around the city, however the models holding the cigars felt a little too obvious. The cotton and linen fabrics were in lovely hues and were right on the mark. We saw many the candy coloured suit even in street style shots and they are often becoming a firm summer favourite. With what the New York Times calls them: ‘palest banana; faded ocher; mint green; Necco-wafer pink’.
In terms of street style we also keep seeing one of our favourite on trend fabrics of the moment, seersucker! (Please see above) Our Loro Piana ones are the luxurious cooling feeling you need for feeling fashion week influenced.
Another favourite was Krammer and Stoudt who hold a very West Coast aesthetic, yet for our interest are partnering with Brooklyn based master tailor Martin Greenfield Clothiers who has been described as the best men’s tailor in the United States and on his list of clients holds four U.S Presidents, along with fashioning suits for menswear labels DKNY and Rag & Bone and the television show Broadwalk Empire. They are also in ties with master shirt maker Mitch Gambert, who began to improve the sizing techniques for made to measure shirts, specifying on looking at people’s posture for quality of fit. Which at McCann’s is one of our main priorities when it comes to our work.
Designer Michael Rubin of Krammer and Stoudt brings in the casual-ism to combine with the crisp tailoring that can bring a breezy American feel to your workwear. With inspiration from camping trips as a child in the late Sixties to Baja, Calif, he gave Latin and surfer vibes to the full suits. Textures and stripes were a key part and showed an intriguing waffle-knit stretch suit with slim trousers.
One of the main trends that seemed to come across was relaxed workwear for the globe-trotting entrepreneur, which as many of our McCann’s clients are we know how important the casual jackets and smart jeans looks are. And why not even mix it up with a casual waistcoat look also. The use of a tailored short can even come into question with a casual jacket to keep cool while on the move in this stultifying heat.
People want much more of an easiness and lightness and that’s often why people choose bespoke. They know it fits, they can re-order and it’s long lasting so less much hassle. Although this is perhaps the opposite ideal when viewing menswear collections, it can still give the new generation gentleman an idea of items to invest in. Especially in the women’s counter part, where we are inundated with different types of shows each season, menswear in general is slower, and gives you more time to view and appreciate what you want you actually want.